Around the country, there are hundreds (maybe thousands!) of organizations working to improve our food system. By sharing about non-profits and for-profits that are working in this space, we can find inspiration and learn about successful strategies while building a national food community.
My Food Field Trip series here on my blog does just that. I profile various organizations to highlight their goals, programs, methods, and financial models (as much as possible). So hop on the bus, we’re going on a field trip, and this week, we're talking WINE!
As a much needed vacation before Christmas, my fiancé and I spent two and a half days wine tasting in and around Sonoma, California. Well known for its excellent wine making, the region is picturesque, charming, a bit rugged, and quite empty in December (see a few pics here). Sonoma valley is one valley over from the more commercialized Napa valley, and has equally good (if not better) wine and food. My favorite restaurant is the Glen Ellen Star, a tiny, warm place with scrumptious pastas, wood roasted veggies, and house-made ice cream.
When I planned this trip, I looked for sustainable wineries in the area. Some time on Google indicated that Sonoma County is instituting a 100% sustainable winery goal by 2019, awesome! It will be the first wine region in the country to do this. As for specific wineries that prioritize sustainability, one in particular caught my attention: Quivira Vineyards (pronounced "key-vera"), in Healdsburg, CA.
In total, we visited 5 wineries during our trip (pro tip: share tastings, wine country is a marathon, not a sprint), but this is a field trip post about only one - Quivira - because it is majorly impressive.
Our Quivira visit started with (what else?) wine, poured by our cheerful tour guide for the day, Robert. Unfortunately, at 10AM, after 2 full days of visiting wineries, that was a bit painful….oof. We had no choice but to rally! Luckily, we started off a with a light white wine.
The tour took us in and out of the tasting room, the gardens, the vineyard, the barn, the creek, and the winery. And it was GREAT! Let me put on my travel agent hat for a moment: take a trip to Healdsburg and visit Quivira, you won’t be disappointed! (Unless you hate wine and beautiful places, then maybe stay home).
Quivira is a biodynamic winery, meaning it meets specific standards verified by a third party organization, the Demeter Association. The theories behind the standards are based on the ethical, spiritual, and ecological principles of Rudolf Steiner. There are strict regulations about soil, composting, animals, and pesticides/herbicides (they can’t use any) and it takes 10 years to meet the full set of requirements!
Quivira proprietors, Pete and Terry Kite, have taken the biodynamic process to heart, they hired a master gardener out of Colorado a few years ago to come in and create a vegetable and herb garden in front on the winery. It was beautiful!
The garden is primarily used for educational purposes, but why waste anything? Some produce is used for the occasional garden-to-table dinner on the property. Some of the herbs are dried for a skin-care line, available to purchase on site. A few varieties of vegetables (the artichokes, for example) are grown for the seeds which are then dried and submitted to a seed bank. The rest of the fruits and vegetables are donated to a local food bank.
I asked about selling the produce, but learned that Quivira doesn’t have the right license for it. Maybe a small CSA-like model could be developed in the future??
Quivira also has about 20 chickens (for eggs), oh so many bees (for pollination), and 3 happy, frolicking pigs (for eating). In 2016, the winery will bring in a cow for the first time.
Solar panels on the roof generate the power needed for operations and the rest of the power is sold back to the grid.
Don't forget the wine making. The barrels, crush pad, and other equipment all sat behind the tasting room. On the day we visited, it was a “bottling day,” meaning the mobile wine-bottling company brought its truck and all day wine was funneled into bottles slapped with the Quivira label and packed onto pallets.
So of course I love this type of model. It’s beautiful, it’s varied, it takes advantage of nature. I asked Robert why this isn’t the norm everywhere. The answer, he told me, is in how much labor it takes. Growing grapes for wine this way is significantly more labor intensive. Caring for the animals and the garden is also labor intensive. And more labor doesn’t translate to a higher cost for the customer. These wines (ranging in price from around $25-$60 per bottle) were right on par with the other wineries we visited earlier in the trip.
After 2 hours and some GENEROUS tasting pours, I wondered to myself, how does Quivira stay in business? This question is at the crux of all of social enterprise. How can a business be competitive when focusing on a social and environmental mission instead of just on making money. If Quivira has worked it out, kudos to them!
As for me, I knew I wanted to take home some wine...
People often ask me what they can do to support a more sustainable food system. I struggle with an answer because, of course, it’s complicated. Today, here's a small suggestion: plan a visit to Quivira. Give them your business, buy wine from them.
If you aren’t able to do this, research the sustainability of wines you already like and start purchasing the better ones. I guarantee you there are delicious wines produced with fewer chemicals, better soil, and higher environmental standards that still taste great.
Are you wondering about the sustainability of YOUR favorite wine? Tell me about it in the comments below and I'll do some digging for you!